Hakarl: Explaining this Fishy Icelandic Tradition

Something fishy is happening in Iceland. No, it’s not underground criminal activity or paranormal phenomena; it’s one of our oldest (and smelliest) traditions, called Hakarl. If this is the first time you’ve ever heard the name, or you’re planning on visiting the island soon, this is the article for you.

Here, we will explain everything about Hakarl, from what it is and its cultural significance in Iceland to why your new Icelander friends might use it as an official “welcome to Iceland” prank.

What is Hakarl?

Hakarl is one of the oldest traditional dishes here in Iceland. So much so that it’s seen as one of our national dishes. In proper Icelandic, we call it Kæstur Hakarl which reveals exactly what the dish is: fermented shark. The dish is most often made from Greenland shark meat since these sharks are so abundant along the Icelandic coast.

But, believe it or not, this dish’s reputation is not just based on the fact that it’s made from shark meat or that you’ll essentially be eating fermented fish in Iceland. It’s the smell that this dish is mostly known for. This shark dish has an incredibly pungent ammonia smell, and many will actually say that the dish itself is not so bad if you manage to get passed the smell.

Once it’s ready, the shark meat is hung to dry for several months. The drying stage is what gives it the characteristic ammonia smell, which can be compared to a strong cleaning product. The taste, while not as overwhelming as the smell, is often described as having a fishy, nutty flavor with a strong aftertaste.

Fermented shark in Iceland also comes in ranges of strength (almost like spicy dishes), so it’s possible to opt for a milder version before testing your resolve with a stronger Hakarl like the ones favored by the older generations in the northwest of Iceland. Another Icelandic tradition is to drink some Brennivin (or Black Death as we also call it) along with Hakarl.

One can debate whether this tradition started because people really enjoyed the taste of Brennivin along with the Hakarl, if it was an attempt to mask the smell, or if it was essentially to try and wash down the Icelandic shark.

The Different Kinds of Hakarl

You mainly get two different kinds of Hakarl based on which part of the shark you use:

Skyrhakarl

The name means “Skyr Hakarl”, the meat originates from the body of the shark and is white in color.

Glerhakarl

The name means “Glassy Shark”, the meat originates specifically from the belly of the shark and is reddish in color.

The Nutritional Value of Hakarl

It might be hard to believe, but our beloved tradition of putrid shark meat actually has nutritional value to it as well. Hakarl is a great source of protein and contains a lot of Omega-3 fatty acids. Protein is essential to our diets as it helps with a variety of bodily functions including building (everything from muscle and cartilage to nails and hair and repairing), as well as repairing muscle, tissue, you name it. 

Omega-3 has especially been credited for its powerful impact on heart and brain health. But as with all things in life, it’s best done in moderation, and ingesting too much protein and fats can have a negative impact on your health, such as having to deal with higher cholesterol and blood pressure. 

Iceland’s Fermented Shark: Living Dangerously

If things couldn’t get stranger or more controversial, eating this putrified shark is dangerous business if not made correctly. Greenland sharks are poisonous to eat! This is not because of venom, but because of their anatomy (or rather lack thereof).

You see, the Greenland Shark doesn’t have a urinary system, which means that urine is released directly into the bloodstream and tissue of the shark (now the strong ammonia smell makes sense, right?). But this also means that the shark meat is full of urea and trimethylamine oxide, which is poisonous to humans and unfit for consumption. That being said, if processed properly, the meat is harmless, it is just the smell that sticks around. 

The Greenland shark is known to have toxic flesh due to high levels of urea and trimethylamine oxide. In order to make it edible, the shark meat undergoes a fermentation process. First, it is gutted and cleaned. The meat is then placed in a shallow hole, covered with gravel and stones, which allows it to press for about 6-12 weeks. This removes the toxins and starts the fermentation process.

The Process of Making Hakarl Food

Everyone is probably curious to know what the process of de-poisoning a poisonous shark and fermenting it looks like. If you want to go the old-school (extremely manual) route, you would chop off the shark’s head and gut it. Find a place with gravelly sand, dig a hole, and then place your shark inside. Cover it up with the sand, and then place a layer of stones on top, so the weight can press down on the shark.

The more and heavier the stones, the quicker fluids will be released and the shorter the fermentation process will be. The shark will be left buried for anything between 6 and 18 months (depending on the season). This period is referred to as the curing period. This is also the crucial period during which the poisonous levels of urea and trimethylamine oxide are broken down by bacteria and turned into ammonia.

Once the curing period is over, the shark is dug up, cut into pieces, and hung up to dry for roughly 5 months. You’ll know the shark is ready when the meat gets a brownish crust (don’t worry, this is removed before it’s eaten). After all that, the only thing left to do is to dish up. Hakarl is usually served in little cubes and eaten with toothpicks.

Hakarl is usually served in small cubes, and it’s common to wash it down with a shot of Brennivin, an Icelandic schnapps also known as ‘Black Death’. It’s advised to start with a small piece and have a drink ready, as the strong smell and taste can be overwhelming for first-timers.

If you’re curious to see how it’s done while here on the island, you must visit the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum where the original process is showcased. In modern-day commercial terms where much larger volumes need to be produced, the process is much more automated and sped up with the use of technology such as temperature-controlled fermentation chambers You also don’t need to worry about getting any sand in your shark meat.

But, if you ask any of the older generation here on the island, they will be very adamant that the old way of making Hakarl is the best way. Apparently, they can taste the difference, so maybe this is a theory you can test during your travels in Iceland.

The Cultural Significance of Hakarl in Iceland

There is a common misconception that as a national dish, Hakarl is still consumed by Icelanders every day, but this is not true. Today, Hakarl means different things to people at different times:

Hakarl as a Form of Sustenance

What can be seen as almost a novelty today, was once a very general form of sustenance here on the island. With Iceland’s fishing background and the country’s close relationship to the ocean, including shark on the menu was not a big leap. Hakarl can actually be traced back all the way to the Vikings when processes like pickling and fermenting were essential to keep food “fresh” for longer.

This traditional Icelandic food dates back to the Viking era, where the fermentation process was essential for preserving food. With the harsh conditions of Iceland, storing food for long periods of time was vital for survival. Hakarl is considered a symbol of Iceland’s resilience and resourcefulness.

Shark fishing became a thing in the 9th century, grew in popularity during the 14th century, and became a bit of a craze between the 18th and 19th centuries. The sharks were caught by using rotten seal and other meats as bait, which makes humans ultimately eating the sharks the end of a very strange circle of life. In modern-day, you won’t find too many Hakarl serving as a basic form of everyday sustenance anymore.

Hakarl as a Much-loved Tradition

While there are many Icelanders who truly enjoy eating Hakarl (especially the older generation), it is mainly enjoyed as a much-loved tradition as the “strange dried shark dish” by the younger generations today.

You will find plenty of Hakarl during our mid-winter festival called Thorrablot, and plenty of locals daring each other to eat the Hakarl or trying to get new foreign friends to give it a go. As a reminder of the past and a tourist treat, you’ll only find a couple of small boats going out to sea to do some shark hunting these days.

In modern Iceland, Hakarl is typically consumed during the midwinter festival, Þorrablót. It’s seen as a way to honor Icelandic heritage, with many Icelanders consuming the delicacy as a means to connect with their roots.

Hakarl as a Tourist Attraction

Hakarl is definitely not just something locals force onto unsuspected foreigners. For many visitors, it’s on their list of strange things to eat in Iceland, and a must-try. So, if you can’t find some Hakarl at your local friends, there are a few other places where you can find it:

On a Tour

You will find many of our local tour operators and guides working in some local flavor on their tours with Hakarl. And if you would like to really dive into local culture and cuisine, you can also book a tour such as the Reykjavik Food Walk where you can learn all about the local sights and attractions while stuffing your face.

At a Store

You will find Hakarl at almost all major grocery stores here in Iceland. You can also try Kolaportid Flea Market at the Old Harbor in Reykjavik that’s known for selling fresh local produce and all sorts of traditional Icelandic food.

At a Restaurant

There are a few local restaurants that specialize in Icelandic cuisine and where you can try out Hakarl. These include Café Loki, Islenski Barinn (The Icelandic Bar), and the Viking Village Restaurant.

Will You Enjoy the Taste of Hakarl?

Well, you won’t really know until you try, but people believe that there is a way for you to discern whether you’ll be able to stomach what is officially the world’s third-worst dish according to Taste Atlas. If you are incredibly sensitive to smell, you probably won’t get past the ammonia of Hakarl. But those who generally enjoy stinky cheeses such as Blue Cheese can be prime candidates for chowing down on Hakarl.

How to pronounce Hákarl?

If you’re planning to try this traditional Icelandic delicacy, it’s worth knowing how to pronounce it correctly. The word “hákarl” (often spelled “hakarl” in English) might look tricky at first glance, but it’s easier than you think.

The word “hákarl” is pronounced as [ˈhauːkʰartl̥] in Icelandic. Here’s a simple breakdown to help you:

• Há: Pronounced like “how” in English.

• Karl: Pronounced like “karl” but with a softer, almost silent “r”, and the “l” is soft and slightly aspirated.

Hakarl as a Road Trip

If you plan on exploring the island and doing a road trip, testing out Hakarl can be a road trip for your tastebuds. Tasting the different types and strengths of Hakarl across the country will give you an idea of how diverse and fascinating this dish can be. So, rent a car in Iceland, hit the road, and let us know whether Hakarl got your jay or your nay!